How to chose the right shrub
- Consider your needs and the plant’s needs when choosing shrubs. Are you looking for evergreens to serve as the backdrop to the rest of your garden bed? Are you looking for a pop of color to be the star of your space? Do you prefer a shrub with flowers or something that simply has an interesting leaf?
- Take into consideration the location and available space. Remember barriers such as overhead and below ground utility lines, sidewalks and driveways and proximity to any structures. Think about windows and down spouts. Determine the maximum height and width you need. Keep in mind that most shrubs are easily trimmed to fit your space.
- Consider soil and light conditions. Soil can be amended to a certain extent but not in all cases. A shrub that requires good drainage (such as an evergreen) will not function and grow properly in a wet area. Shrubs also need certain light conditions. Determine the type of lighting your space has and chose accordingly. A shrub requiring full sun needs at least 6 hours of bright, uninterrupted light each day. Partial sun/partial shade means 3-6 hours of sun or filtered sun each day. And shade is little to no sun.
- When planting multiple shrubs together in one space, consider planting in odd numbers such as 3 or 5. Odd numbers are aesthetically more appealing to the eye.
When to plant shrubs
Shrubs can be planted at any time of year except when the ground is too frozen that it would be nearly impossible to dig a hole. The best time to plant shrubs is in cooler weather, which makes fall the optimal season. However you can still plant shrubs even in the middle of summer. Any shrub you purchase from a nursery, whether it is in a pot or B&B (balled-and-burlapped), can be planted at any time. If you wish to transplant a shrub, it must be done when the shrub is in dormancy. If you transplant a shrub in full leaf you run the risk of it going into shock and dying. October in the Midwest is typically a good time to transplant shrubs.
How to plant shrubs
- Measure both the height and the width of the root ball on the shrub.
- Dig a hole approximately 1 1/2 times the size of the root ball both deep and wide. This will allow extra room to amend the soil as well as room to adjust the placement of the shrub.
- The soil in our area can be dense clay rather than loose and fertile. While some shrubs grow ok in clay, a richer soil will allow the roots a chance to establish and grow deeper. Before placing the root ball into the hole, “amend” the soil by adding a mixture of mushroom compost and top soil to the bottom and sides of the hole. Make sure the soil is packed well to avoid any setting after planting.
- If the shrub is in a pot, remove the pot from the root ball by either gently pulling it out or by cutting the sides of the pot with a utility knife. If the shrub is balled-and-burlapped leave the burlap on until the shrub is set in place in the hole. This allows you to move the shrub around without disturbing the root ball.
- Place the shrub in the prepared hole. A shrub should be planted with the top of the root ball either level to the ground or with the root ball a couple of inches above the ground, if you prefer to mound it up. Do not plant a shrub too deep.
- If your shrub is balled-and-burlapped, once the shrub is in place cut any rope that may be holding the root ball together. Using a utility or similar knife, cut some slits in the burlap bag. This allows the roots to establish into the surrounding soil and will also allow for faster deterioration of the burlap.
- Back fill the hole with your soil mixture. If there seem to be a lot of air pockets, you can gently pack the soil by using water around the root ball.
- Spread 2-3 inches of mulch around the base of the shrub.
- Water
How to water
Watering is possibly the trickiest part of planting. This is because soil responds differently from one area to the next. One space may hold water while another drains very quickly. The best thing you can do is pay close attention to how your shrubs respond to their new home. A newly planted shrub needs to be cared for especially right after planting and still closely for at least one year following. You want moist soil but not soggy. But there is no set schedule. You may need to water your shrubs every day for the first two weeks, however if your soil holds water then you run the risk of overwatering. Conversely if you have a well drained soil and you water every other day, you run the risk of too little water and your leaves will start turning brown, drying up and falling off. One trick is to water your newly planted shrubs right away. Then wait 24 hours and dig down about 6 inches next to the root ball and see what the soil is like. Again you are looking for moist but not soggy. Do not judge based on how the top of the soil looks – whether it is wet or dry. The soil could be wet on top and dry 2-3 inches down which would not be sufficient to get water to the roots. It can also appear dry on top but be soggy beneath. It is worth it to do the extra work and check it. If 24 hours after the first watering, the soil is soggy, then hold off on your watering for another day. Check again and go from there. If it is dry, then you will probably need to water your shrubs every day for the first couple of weeks, then ease off to every other day. Then gradually ease back from there. Remember to pay attention to your shrubs throughout the rest of the year as well. They may need extra water during the hot summer months as well as a good soaking before winter begins. Also, spreading mulch around your shrubs can help hold in water, which is beneficial especially on warmer days.
Fertilizer, Insecticide, Fungicide
Just like people, shrubs are living things and need to eat. Mushroom Compost, Composted Manure, slow release granules, and triple super phosphate are some of the fertilizers we carry. Our experts can help you find the best product for you.
And just like people, shrubs get sick from time to time. Fungus in your flowers and bugs in your bushes are no fun. However, shrubs are typically easy to treat and will usually bounce back within a year or so. Ask our experts to help you find a solution for any insect or disease you see in your shrubs. Place an infected leaf or small branch in a sealed ziplock bag and stop in to speak to our horticulturists.